The Roussillon

With the Treaty of the Pyrenees on 7th November 1659 there came an end to the Spanish-French conflicts which had been the result of the Thirty Year War. Both countries now agreed on a new border, and Spain surrendered the Roussillon, a part of Navarra and the northern part of the Cerdagne to France.
And so, Spanish Catalonia and French Catalonia came into existence. The area, however, never lost its Spanish identity. Also the climate is dryer and hotter in comparison to the other parts of France. The coastal towns are characterised by the presence of many thick old palmtrees alongside the boulevards and also the cuisine is more Spanish orientated than French. And not to forget, still many people speak Catalan among themselves.
The coastal strip is very popular with sun worshippers. Seaside resorts such as Canet Plage and Argeles-sur-Mer do have lots to offer. There is a tropical feel to the beaches, there are lots of souvenir shops and restaurants and there is a very long beach which doesn't go down too steeply into the sea, so the Roussillon coast is very ideal for families with little children.

Culture lovers will enjoy visiting the wonderful old abbeys, medieval towns or castles. Catalonia was one of the most important realms of the Mediterranean. The Balearic Islands and the Roussillon were part of this realm. About 80 years (1261 - 1279/1344) the Roussillon and the Balearic Islands formed the more or less independent kingdom of Mallorca, with Perpignan as its capital.

Perpignan is a nice town with many little streets. Several beautiful houses downtown are witnesses of the earlier economical golden age. The Palace of the kings of Mallorca was built between the 13th and 14th century and is the oldest royal residence in France. It was built after Jacques le Conquérant (the conqueror) decided to turn Perpignan into the capital of the kingdom of Mallorca. The Citadel, of which a part has survived the ages, looks out onto the city.
Perpignan has several interesting churches, such as the Notre Dame Ste Marie la Réal, a typical example of southern Gothic style. The Eglise St. Jaques dates from the 14th century and has been partly built onto the ancient city walls. And not to forget the cathedral, St. Jean Baptiste.
The town centre is characterised by the Place de la Loge with its beautiful old buildings, such as the old town hall and the old courthouse (Loge de la Mer) from the 14th century. On Place Verdun we find Le Castillet from the 14th century. This was the place from which Perpignan was defended. It now houses an interesting district museum. The annual fireworks are fired from the area around the Castillet on 23rd June, the feast day of St. John the Baptist.
On Place Armand Lanoux you will find the Tourist Information Centre. There are often markets downtown, like the Summer fleemarket on Sundaymornings (Palais des Expositions). In the period that Spain and France were fighting for the ownership of the Roussillon, the Fort de Salses, situated a little bit north of Perpignan, played an important role. The fortress was built in 1497 by king Fernando of Aragon. The fortress is buried halfway into the ground and is a good example of Spanish military architecture. The building is well preserved and worth a visit. The tour takes about 45 minutes.

In the mid 5th century, the bisshop came to Elne. The town would remain the bisschop's seat until 1602, when it moved to Perpignan. The cathedral St. Eulalie is definitely worth a visit, parts of the church date back to the 11th century. However, the absolute stunner is the attached monastery with its magnificent pillars, of which none is alike. In the monastery you will find a small but lovely archaeological museum.
The village itself is perfect for walks along the ancient streets and from the ramparts you have a wonderful view over the village and the landscape beyond.


Tip: Collioure is very populair. Go early in the morning to have a parking spot. In Summer you can also travel to the nearest town and take a ferry (hop on hop off) from e.g. Port Vendres or Argelès-sur-Mer to Collioure.
When you go further south along the coastline, the beaches become more rocky with stones and rocks.


Prades is an old town in the fertile valley of the Têt river at the northern slope of the Canigou. In the church St. Pierre you can see a very mysterious black Christ. There is a market on Tuesdays in the Allées Arago around the church.
In the surroundings of Prades is another site you must see when visiting the Roussillon; the abbey of St. Michel de Cuxa. The abbey was founded in 974 and in the Middle Ages it was one of the most important abbeys in Catalonia. There is a very famous music festival in July and August. Tickets can be purchased at the local Tourist Office.
You can also take a breathtaking walk through the Gorge of Carança. Part of the path has been hewn out of the cliff.

And of course the Roussillon is full of impressive Cathar Castles (see the webpage "The Cathars" for more information). Visit for instance Peyrepertuse or Queribus, the two more famous of the Cathar Castles. But there are many more less known fortresses with equally interesting stories....
It is clear that visiting the Languedoc without making at least one daytrip into the Roussillon, is not complete. It pays to get lost, as this is the right way to discover unspoilt natural beauty, ancient villages, mysterious ruins of old castles and breathtaking views. A unique part of France!!